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Being small, Phoebe English can manage her business as a localist. By swearing off the use of virgin materials and offering limited-edition runs, her template comes as close to pure as it’s possible for fashion production to be. But what about the other end of the spectrum, where giant global brands like Balenciaga operate?Finding new ways forward brings me to Marco Zanini, who presented his third beautiful collection in his quietly cool apartment in Milan and took the time to walk guests through the mindful vision behind his exquisite clothes (please read Nicole Phelps’s review). Being an independent designer today means navigating an extremely challenging territory. Zanini is showing the resilience that comes from a strong, unwavering belief in a true passion; he has the guts and the drive it takes to assert a highly individual approach, flying solo to carve out a space fit to his own terms—a commitment to a hard, uncompromising way forward. His approach deserves respect and, most of all, support—independent voices are more necessary than ever today to nurture a healthier, truly open fashion system.”

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